Caring for Leather Bags and Accessories So They Last

Why leather deteriorates

Leather is a natural material made from processed animal hide, and it stays supple by holding the right amount of oil and moisture. Problems start when that balance is lost. If it dries out too much, it stiffens, develops fine lines and eventually cracks; if it sits somewhere damp for a long time, mould grows. Strong heat makes it shrink or harden, and long exposure to sunlight fades the colour. Leather care really comes down to avoiding these four things and keeping that balance.

Know your type of leather

Even among leather goods, care depends on how the surface is finished. Check the care label or the seller's description first, then use the guide below to get a rough idea.

• Smooth, coated leather: fairly resistant to water and dirt, so relatively easy to care for
• Lightly finished natural leather: shows water spots and handling marks easily, but deepens in colour with use
• Napped leather such as suede or nubuck: especially vulnerable to water and oil, cleaned with a dedicated brush
• Patent leather with a glossy coating: prone to scratches and to picking up colour from other items
• Faux leather: doesn't need leather cream, and with age the surface can crack or peel

Everyday care

Steady basic care matters far more than special tools. Simply wiping leather lightly before grime and dust build up makes a big difference to how long it lasts.

• After use, wipe the surface with a soft, dry cloth
• Pay particular attention to handles and corners, which get touched and rubbed the most
• When it looks dry or dull, spread a very thin layer of leather cream and wipe off any excess
• Don't overfill the bag; heavy items pull it out of shape
• Keep anything that might leak, such as pens, make-up or drinks, in a separate pouch

When it gets caught in the rain

The most common mistake with wet leather is applying heat to dry it faster. Drying it quickly makes the leather shrink and harden, which is hard to undo.

• Press a dry cloth onto it to soak up the water, without rubbing
• Stuff the bag with paper or a dry cloth to hold its shape and absorb moisture inside
• Let it air-dry slowly in a shady, well-ventilated spot
• Don't dry it with a hair dryer, in front of a heater or in direct sunlight
• If it feels stiff once fully dry, restore some oil with leather cream

Dealing with stains

Stains sink in deeper over time, so it's best to act quickly. For oil or food, press a dry cloth or tissue onto it to absorb as much as possible, and don't rub, which spreads it. Ballpoint pen marks often spread when you try to rub them off, so a specialist is the safer choice. Alcohol, acetone and wet wipes can damage the finish or strip the colour, so don't use them. Dark denim rubbing against a light-coloured bag can transfer dye, so take care when wearing them together.

Storage

How you store leather when it's put away for a season decides what condition it's in next season.

• Use a breathable fabric bag, such as the dust bag it came with, instead of plastic
• Stuff it with paper or fabric so it doesn't lose its shape
• Detach the shoulder strap or put it inside, and store the bag standing rather than hanging
• Leave space so it isn't squashed against or stacked under other bags
• Keep it somewhere dry and out of direct sunlight, and take it out to air now and then

If mould appears

A white or bluish powdery film is very likely mould. Brushing it off indoors can spread spores, so go outside or somewhere well ventilated, wear a mask, and gently brush it off with a dry cloth or soft brush. Then let it dry thoroughly in the shade, and deal with the damp where it was stored, or the mould will come back. If marks remain after wiping or the smell persists, the mould may have gone deep into the leather, so take it to a specialist. Check other bags and shoes stored in the same place too.

Mistakes to avoid and when to get help

Putting a new cream or cleaner straight onto the front can cause stains or discolouration, so test a little first somewhere hidden, like the base or the inside. Cleaning with household detergent or cooking oil can lead to stains, smells and discolouration and isn't recommended, and never put leather in the washing machine. Dyeing faded leather yourself often leaves it blotchy. For old or treasured items, large stains, tears or loose stitching, consult a leather repair specialist. Above all, the product's own care instructions take priority over this article.